Most print failures happen in the first three layers. Get those right and the rest of the model has a strong foundation; get them wrong and you are chasing smoke, spaghetti or a corner that lifts overnight. This guide covers the fundamentals on four everyday materials: PLA+, PETG, ABS and TPU.
The Two Real Causes of Bad First Layers
Almost every first-layer problem boils down to gap (nozzle height) and grip (bed temperature and surface).
- Gap too big → the line does not squish; it rolls and lets go → poor adhesion, visible gaps between lines.
- Gap too small → nozzle scrapes, "elephant foot", blobs on the bead → over-extrusion at the base.
- Wrong bed temperature → material cools too fast and shrinks unevenly → lifted corners and warping.
Nozzle Gap and Z-Offset: The 0.02mm Game
A good starting gap is roughly 60–70% of your layer height. For a 0.2 mm first layer that means the nozzle sits ~0.12–0.14 mm above the glass. Fine-tune live:
| Visual Symptom | What It Means | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Gaps between lines, lines are round | Nozzle too high | Lower Z by 0.02–0.04 mm |
| Ridges, rough top, elephant foot | Nozzle too low | Raise Z by 0.02–0.04 mm |
| Smooth sheet, no gaps, lines fuse | Sweet spot | Lock it in |
Print a single-layer square and watch the extrusion as you nudge Z live — it is the fastest way to build intuition.
Bed Temperature by Material
| Material | Bed Temp | Nozzle Tips | Adhesion Aid |
|---|---|---|---|
| PLA+ | 60°C | Low warp; cool print for best finish | PEI or smooth glass |
| PETG | 75–85°C | Be careful: sticks too well to PEI | Glue stick / release layer |
| ABS | 100–110°C | Needs enclosure; high warp risk | Enclosure + heated chamber |
| TPU 95A / 85A | 40–50°C | Slow down; avoid over-retraction | Clean PEI / glass |
Material-Specific Weekend Fixes
- PLA/PLA+: clean the bed with IPA; PLA rarely warps unless the room is drafty.
- PETG: it grips too hard when hot. A thin layer of glue stick acts as a release layer and prevents plate damage.
- ABS: the biggest warp risk. A sealed enclosure and a consistently hot chamber matter more than any bed coating.
- TPU: soft and tricky. Slow the first layer to 15–20 mm/s and keep the nozzle close; under-gap shows up as a wavy skirt.
When in Doubt, Check the Surface
A worn PEI build plate creates invisible adhesion dips. If a freshly tuned Z still fails in the same spot, inspect the surface for scratches or a worn texture — a sheet swap is often the cheapest "tuning" of all.
For reliable material performance from spool to spool, start with documented parameters. ANTINSKY publishes recommended settings across its PLA+, PETG, ABS and TPU range, giving you a solid baseline before you fine-tune your own machine.
Common First-Layer Failures in Practice
Here are three patterns you will recognise and how to read each one quickly:
- Warped corners that curl up: usually a chamber or bed temperature problem, most common with ABS. Add an enclosure, raise the bed temperature and slow the first layers so each layer has time to bond before the next shrinks against it.
- Complete first-layer release: either the gap is too large to make contact, or the bed is under-temperature, or the surface is dirty. Re-level, warm the bed to the material table above, and wipe with IPA.
- Elephant foot, where the base flares out: the nozzle is tramming too low, or the first layer is over-extruded. Raise Z slightly or reduce first-layer flow by a few percent.
Retraction and the First Layer
Retraction rarely causes first-layer failures directly, but a too-high retraction distance can leave a gap at the start of the first outline that turns into a weak seam. If you see a missing chunk on the very first perimeter, reduce travel before retract or add a larger skirt. The skirt has a second job besides priming the nozzle: it tells you immediately whether the gap and temperature are correct before the real part starts.
Finally, do not overthink perfect first layers. A good rule is simple: the first layer should be smooth, continuous and slightly shiny. If it looks dull and rough, the nozzle is dragging; if it looks rounded and stringy, it is too high. Dial those live adjustments over two or three test squares and you will spend less time re-printing than you do tuning.