Why Print Nylon?
By Inno Uncle
Nylon, or PA, is one of the most versatile engineering plastics you can print. It absorbs impact without shattering, survives repeated flexing, and resists many oils and solvents. That makes it ideal for living hinges, gears, bushings, drone parts, and protective covers. It is not as stiff as PLA or ABS, but for parts that need to bend rather than break, nylon is hard to beat.
The Moisture Problem
Nylon absorbs water from the air quickly. Wet filament will bubble, steam, and produce weak, foamy layers. You can usually hear the popping at the nozzle before you see the damage. The fix is simple but non-negotiable: dry the filament before printing and keep it dry during the print. A temperature-controlled drying box is the easiest solution, and an airtight storage box with desiccant works between sessions.
Recommended Settings
- Hotend: 240-270°C depending on the blend.
- Bed: 70-90°C with a glue stick or Magigoo on glass or PEI.
- Speed: 30-50 mm/s to improve layer adhesion.
- Cooling: Minimal or none. Too much fan weakens layer bonds.
- Enclosure: Helpful but not always required for smaller parts.
Common Nylon Blends
Nylon 6 and 6/6 are the standard options. Nylon 12 is lower moisture absorption and easier to print. Carbon fiber filled nylon adds stiffness, while glass fiber filled nylon offers more heat resistance. For most makers, a copolyamide like PA12-CF or PAHT-CF offers a good balance of printability and performance. Browse our filament selection to find a nylon that fits your printer. A drying box is almost essential for this material.